Monday, March 08, 2010

Kadavallur Sri Rama temple: Kerala tradition at its best

mar 8th, 2010

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From: sri 

Kerala tradition at its best
Dr. R. Nagaswamy
February 19, 2010
http://beta.thehindu.com/arts/article108634.ece

Architecture, worship and music combine gloriously at the Kadavallur Sri
Rama temple.

Kadavallur is a small village in Thrissur district of Kerala, where an
age old Sri Rama temple shines as a perfect example of all traditions of
Kerala. The existence of this temple the 10th-11th century is attested
by a Vattezhuthu record inscribed on a stone on the base of the
enclosure. Like all temples of Kerala the main tower is of the sloping
roof variety with two enclosures and an impressive entrance tower.

The base of the main shrine is made of granite while the wall of the
superstructure is latarite plastered and embellished with designs. The
super structure is covered with wooden frame work while the roof itself
is made of metal simulating the tiled slopes. Beautiful wooden
sculptures of different manifestations of gods and associate images are
introduced as bracket figures. They stand out as good examples of early
wooden sculptures in the true Kerala style. An example is that of the
ten-headed Ravana on his chariot which is shown almost like a boat. The
poses and the flexions of the body portrayed show the remarkable
achievement of Kerala dancers in body poses as may be seen in a
sculpture said to be Parasurama aiming an arrow.

The main deity made of stone inside the sanctum is a four-armed Vishnu
who is worshipped as Sri Rama as in many other Kerala temples, where
various avatars are worshipped as main deity in the form of Vishnu.
Encircling the main shrine is a tiled enclosure with an entrance having
two wings, one on the South is important as it is called Koothambalam,
the one on the other side is where spectators sit. At the rear-end of
the Koothambalam is placed a huge pot-drum (Kuda-mizha) on a wooden
pedestal. It resembles many such drums portrayed in all the famous
murals of the region, figured in the scenes of Dancing Siva, the player
being Nandikesvara, who learnt dance from Siva.

According to dance and agama treatises, the Kudamuzha Pot drum,
symbolises Nandikesvara.

Rare representation

There is another rare representation that of Hanuman placed on it.
Hanuman as Dwarapala is seen carved in some Siva cave temples of Kerala
as at Kottukkal in this region.

According to the Ramayana, Hanuman was the manifestation of
Nandikesvara, guardian of the entrance to Kailasa.

The Koothambalam of this temple is used in the month of Sivaratri when
the temple dancers, Chakkiyars, dance, sing and expound the connected
story.

The temple was also the repository of a rare tradition of Vedic
learning. Vedic experts belonging to two schools called Yogams
(Thirunavay yogam and Thrissur yogam) meet for ten days annually in the
temple, and examine each other by challenging them to recite from any
part of the entire Veda which they chose. It is not mere reciting the
hymns from memory but splitting the words of the texts in order, without
mistake for nearly one hour. After one party finishes the other party
challenges them by giving another part. It is a remarkable test called
"Anyonyam." A challenge to the command over the whole Vedas and
precision with which they learnt them, it is nearly a 4,000-year old
tradition that has survived only here in the whole of India.
Unfortunately this unique system now faces extinction. It has not
attracted the attention of UNESCO which has taken measures to preserve
Buddhist oral chanting. Out of the two surviving schools one has been
closed down and the other at Thrissur is managing to survive.

Rig Veda occupies eight days of examination in this festival while
Yajurveda is allotted one day with Sama Veda dealt with on the last day.
Now the festival has been enlarged by inviting scholars to explain to
the people what it all means and at the same time discuss all aspects
including "science and technology in the Vedas." And at nights
traditional drama works in Sanskrit and other arts are arranged which
attract a large gathering.

The Temple remains serene as the worship starts very early morning at 4
a.m. where men, women, and children throng to the temple after early
bath in local temple tank to witness the morning puja. In the morning
ritual called "Sri Bali" the decorated temple elephant leads the
procession to the music of the Panchavadya.

The Panchavadya also includes "melam" at times and is an absolute treat.
Kerala artists are masters of this music, especially those of this
region. Starting from slow rhythm, the players gradually build up the
tempo to reach the crescendo after nearly an hour of playing; all the
while the beautifully decorated elephant stands majestically carrying
the deity -"Bali bhera" watching at the same time with its sharp eyes
the movements of all devotees. Kerala is the place to visit for
experiencing this atmosphere of temple worship combining in itself,
literature, arts, architecture, music and dance that provides certainly
an exhilarating living


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